Started with the pump gearbox as this seemed easy to split in two and gain access, out came about a pint of rust coloured water; seen here with red primer. After a couple of very stress relieving hours bashing away with a large hammer (OK it was made of copper) everything was separated off into component parts. Both roller thrust bearings for the worm drive were frozen solid and the sleeves for the gear wheel came off stuck to the shaft, took a bit of 'warming up' with a propane torch to persuade those off. New ones from these people (5-ways bearings).
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The pump was already in bits, seen here are the main body parts 'assembled' (well, piled on one another) temporarily.
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The pump internals as found, all moving surfaces in contact with each other rusted totally solid. Out of all the grease cups only two were salvageable, the rest either sheared off needing re-tap of the hole or would not unscrew under any persuasion (soaking, heat, long levers, loud swearing etc). Diaphragm and inlet valve were missing, evaporated/burnt in the fire and long gone.
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Putting it all together again - Pump
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Not certain about those replacement Stauffer type grease cups, a bit too polished perhaps (brass); the rest have a matt black finish.
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Almost there for the pump, just need to put some split pins and washers on plus find some ¾ inch Whitworth nuts to stop it all coming apart.
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The operating arm here is obviously arranged to give a good mechanical advantage, the rubber diaphragm is quite thick (3/8) plus the weight of the castings and pumped material has to be overcome.
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Stuck the camera inside it's mouth here and unfortunately it also shows some dust and bits in there, first whoooosh of 'sludge' will shift that. Looking at that casting in the middle seems like some sort of connecting arch has broken off, what that was originally for who knows? That piece travels up and down acting as a one way outlet valve. Some kind person mailed to say it's so an operator can lift up that centre piece by hand, I presume for clearing that stubborn bit of solid in your sludge, nice.
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The crank was distorted somehow plus the mains and big end had melted so these were recovered from another wreck of an engine. The 'proper' way to do this of course, would have been to straighten the crank and have new mains and big end shells made up for that particular crank; this was a good enough compromise hopefully.
Cylinder at TDC and the small camshaft is inserted lobe upwards, plenty of moly grease oozing out used for assembly here.
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To make it easier to marry engine and trolley (lifting lighter weights) it was decided to paint the bottom end, bolt it on and assemble everything on the trolley. Seen here with two coats of red primer ready for the inevitable Mid Brunswick Green. Note the modified oil sump plug that clears the crankcase with a pipe, somebody wanted to make changing the oil a little less messy.
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Here is the crankcase mounted onto the trolley, the oil drain can just be seen clearing the side.
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The coupling to the pump had a key driven in; so the engine could be run without the pump being connected, another was made with no taper then everything could slide up and down the shaft. A hole was drilled and tapped so a bolt could stop any movement preventing unexpected connection/disconnection of the engine and pump, it was possibly like this before the idea is just too convenient for somebody not to have made provision before.
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The valves were ground in and re-fitted then the hopper could be put back on, valve clearance was roughly set so there was daylight - will get the feelers out later. Lots of little jobs needed now but wanted to see if it would start; once the (replacement) magneto is timed up it can be tested. Once/if it runs the fuel tank can be fitted - then a strip down to touch up all the paintwork. Did crank it round to listen for mechanical disasters and noticed no spark, the magneto was the wrong rotation so had to play with that a while to make it work. (Clockwise/anticlockwise can be made to work the other way) Very encouraged by the feeling of compression coming back up the handle.
Jobs :
- Pipework for tank
- Make 'bung' for top of carb
- Water tap for hopper
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Recently read a horror story of somebody topping up a carb with petrol on a running engine by pouring it in the top, they set themselves on fire; would normally do that (and will again) but that was fresh in my mind so starting is delayed while the tank got fitted. This Ewarts petrol tap was stuck in the bottom of the old tank and I thought it was a non-original replacement off a motorbike or mower.
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But with the tank on it can be seen there is no room for a tap and the in-line copper pipework, so looks like the bike tap will be 'forgiven', cleaned up and got working after all. Incidentally you can still get the corks for those at these vintage motorbike people.
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slight twist you might live with but the thread stripped in one of the nuts.
That gunge in the sump is a pool of solid white metal, the bearing shells melted out.
Inside the hopper, more molten metal up the inside.